The Anet A8 3D Printer is an amazing way to introduce yourself to the world of 3D Printing. It is fully UNassembled, and really
helps educate yourself on exactly how these things work. By putting it together, you will learn things that will come in handy in
its maintenance and upkeep. And for about $150.00 US, I see no reason to hesitate. I own three of them and have for about 2 years!
They keep doing their job even though I run them mostly 24/7 all year long. These A8 Articles will explain their strengths, weaknesses,
and what to do about them.
The All-Important MOSFET
The first thing we must address is for safety reasons. Do not ignore this step! It turns out the Chinese manufacturer of the A8 did not build
enough into their current/amperage specifications. This results in burned out main boards, discolored wiring, and the possibility of
a fire. To eliminate this issue, we need to add a small circuit board that contains a Mosfet. A Mosfet is a special type of transistor
that controls the current of high current items and completely resolves this issue. Enter the "Little Driver" by Digital Sqrt. Sure you
can get a Chinese Mosfet board, but aren't we fixing this problem because the Chinese manufacturer played fast and loose with
the spec in the first place?
Right out of the box it was apparent that someone did their homework. The wires are clearly labeled and they even include very heavy
duty terminal ends. I suggest you use the included heat shrink so there is no chance of the wires touching each other. Connections are simple.
The A8 Main Board has two terminals, 12 volt positive and 12 volt negative labeled POWER in the corners of the board. Simply use the provided
thick wires and wire from the POWER terminals on the Main Board to the POWER+ and POWER- terminals on the Mosfet Board. Then, connect the
two thick wires coming off the Heat Bed to BED+ and BED- on the Mosfet Board per the Drawing.
The Heat Beds Control (thin wires) go from the two wires on the A8 Main Boards HEAT BED screw terminals as shown and then connected to the Mosfet
board at CN1. Be sure to observe Negative/Positive orientation. This is what gives the new Mosfet board the control. Digital Sqrt even made the board so the
mounting holes line up with the Chinese model so if you are replacing an old one, no re-drilling is necessary.
The board works exactly as advertised and I highly recommend this product. I like that it doesn't generate heat, does its job perfectly and I
can spend my time concerning myself with other things. We wish Digital Sqrt much success! Not convinced? Go to their website at
Digital-Sqrt.com and check out the documentation page. Very well written and very well engineered.
We were so impressed with this little gem, we made a very nice little enclosure for it for mounting to the side of your A8.
Nifty Little Enclosure for the Little Driver
Some people use a second MOSFET board for the Extruder Heat circuit. This is not necessary at all. The current requirements for the
extruder is well within the manufacturers specification without adding another board.
The Anet A8 comes with a heated bed just like the more expensive models and masking tape is already applied to the Aluminum surface.
Masking tape is what many people use for the surface. There are many other ideas, but that is how the A8 comes from the factory. If you
Google 3D Printing Heatbed Sticking you will get a gazillion ways to make your prints better adher to the surface. You can try all of the
tricks.. Hairspray, GlueStick, Acetone/ABS, Glass, PEI, and on and on OR you can take my experience and just cut to the chase. It's completely
up to you.
We are going to fore-go all of the above with a few exceptions. We are going to get perfect results each and every time afterwards. We will not
be looking back! This will cost you a little bit, but you saved so much on the Printer, there is no excuse to cheap out on certain things, this
being one of them. First get yourself a piece of glass. Not just any glass! Regular window glass cut to size is a very bad and dangerous idea.
The reason for this is because every now and then, the Heat beds proximity sensor looses its mind and the nozzle trys to destroy your bed. This
can happen due to a power glitch and it happens very rarely. Nonetheless, it will break that kind of glass and you will have glass all over the
place. Do not cheap out on the glass!
The Glass
What you want to get is a 220mm x 220mm x 3mm piece of Tempered Glass. The ones I get off Ebay are nicely sanded on all sharp surfaces and work
perfectly. They call the stuff Boroscillic Glass. To make a long story short, since they use Boron Trioxide they have a very low tendency towards
thermal expansion and they are more resistant to Thermal Shock. The cost of one piece of this is about $23. Just do an Ebay search for Boroscillic
Glass 220x220. This is only the first step and sets us up with a perfectly flat surface for the next step.
The PEI
Now we need to add the sticking surface. Enter Polyetherimide (PEI). This is a very special thermoplastic that provides high strength at elevated
temperatures and outstanding dimensional stability meaning the Print will stay put without using anything else. You also want a thick piece of PEI
and not some .3mm thin stuff that ends up being ruined very quickly through normal use. Get in the very least a .8mm thick piece that is 220mm
x 220mm. Do a search on Ebay or Amazon for PEI Ultem 1000 220x220 .8mm. Expect to pay roughly $20 a sheet. But do not stop there! Make sure it comes
with a sheet of 3M 468MP Adhesive.
Applying this PEI to the Glass is NOT fun nor easy. I warn you up front it is hard so be really on your game when you attempt this. The problem is the
adhesive really works! You have to start it perfectly and then with a credit card as a spreader, slowly, VERY slowly and carefully press it down to the
glass first. Then remove the protective film on the PEI sheet and then press the PEI down. Really push with that Spreader and get it down good without
air bubbles. Its not easy. Did I say that enough? (Don't answer until after you have tried it). Alternately, you can use book binders to hold the PEI
down to the glass. The good news is, PEI lasts a VERY long time. I change my PEI out about once a year. I do that because of gouges I made when lifting
the prints, or the head getting a tad low and scraping on the PEI sheet. You can actually sand this PEI smooth again with 600 grit paper if you wish.
The only problem with using book binders is, every once in a while you will decide to print something that is very big and nozzle may hit the binder
and snag on it and cause a minor catastrophy. As time goes by, you will get better at getting that Adhesive to lay down correctly. There is good news...
The good news is, PEI is TOUGH. I always test the PEI that comes in prior to installing it by swiping one side with Lacquer Thinner, which is what I
routinely use for cleaning the surface anyway. If it clouds up and gets nasty and discolored, someone tried to sell you Lexan or some other plastic.
Get your money back! (This happened to me!) I put the book binders on so you can see what they look like.
The Hardware
Next we need to scrounge up some non-standard hardware. We are going to do something unusual but very effective. We are going to remove your ability
to level your bed! Trust me. Get yourself 4 Hex Female Standoff Insulators (metal) that are 12mm or 1/2" with 3mm threads. Also, while you are at it, get at
least 4 22mm or 1 inch Flathead Stainless Steel Screws. I get this stuff at McMaster-Carr. While you are waiting for those to come in...
So you have your PEI adhered to the Glass. Now you have some printing to do to finish this wonderful setup. Lay the glass on the clean aluminum surface
minus the masking tape. Use two book binders on all 4 edges to ensure the glass does not move for now. With a little 3D Printing, we are going to fix
this problem once and for all. Its always good in this business to have those medium book binders just in case.
I was very skeptical that bed leveling springs were bad idea until I put this system on all of my ANET A8 Printers and without the springs and ability to
level the bed, I found I was able to get a much more accurate first layer. It has to do with how the bed is oriented in relation to the Axis' and
the way the Z screws are ganged together, not adjustable separately. You are actually fighting against yourself by changing the corner positions using the
spring method. Crank them down to the max and watch how much better the first layer and all subsequent layers turn out!
The Glass Bed Hold-down System
I made this Glass Bed Holddown System using Fusion 360 which is currently free to hobbyists. Below is the STL files for printing direct as well as the
main Fusion 360 files. This way you have everything you need to customize this system. No more book binders after this! This system consists of:
2 Left Corners
2 Right Corners
4 Bolts
4 Nuts
Fusion 360 Zip
A good idea when printing bolts is to print them standing up. This means putting a nice base on them and a thinner shaft near that base. Simply
snap them off the base and they are 100% ready for use! I almost always have support turned on with an 86 degree minimum support overhang angle
so it does not put support on things I do not want. With PEI you will be happy with a BRIM of 5 rounds or none at all. I use the latest Cura for
all of my Slicing and Printing.
Print 4 of the nuts and bolts and 2 of each left and right clamp.
STL Files ready for 3D Printing
Fusion 360 Files ready for making changes.
Print the above at 100% Infill or completely solid. These parts get a lot of abuse. Best to use ABS but I have always printed them in PLA and have never
had a problem. Do not skimp on those standoffs. They must be 12mm or 1/2" and the screws must be flat head so they do not protrude above the Aluminum bed
surface. This system is made for the Heat Bed, 3mm glass plus .8mm PEI. If you do not do this exactly right, things will not fit together nicely.
Remove the Heated Bed from the table by removing the 4 screws holding it down. Remove the springs and store them for posterity. Put one standoff inside
the hole in the plastic bolt, then run the 22mm by 3mm flat head screw down through the bed and bracket assembly. Be sure the plastic screws are pointing
front to back. Do this on all 4 corners.
Next we slide the corners into the plastic bolts observing front to back orientation. Make sure they slide into the bottom bracketry as they are designed
to do. Look that over before starting them. You will see the track the corner is supposed to take. Slide them in nicely and install the back ones first,
then put the round plastic nut on them and tighten them down. Do not overtighten, snug is fine. Do the same for the front except install the glass/PEI
combo, THEN tighten the front corners down. From now on, to remove the glass, just loosen the two front ones.
A side benefit to this system is, it is CHAIN friendly. With or without a chain, these corners really do the job. See the photos if you do not know
what a chain is. It is merely a way to protect the wiring system from the abuse of the table going back and forth repeatedly. I highly recommend you
install a chain. It takes patience and a little work, but worth it. Soldering is required.
The Heated Bed Chain Modification
Once you have printed the 16 chain pieces that you snap together and have the two ends printed, you will be rotating the bed 90 degrees
so the connector is on your left facing the printer as shown. Be very gentle when removing the connector from the heat bed. They made these beds really
cheap and the printed runs can lift off and ruin your day. Don't force anything. Heat it sufficiently to remove it properly, then place a pad of solder on
the runs where your new wire will go. If you are a fanatic like me, use replacement SILICON wire. It is very flexible and very unlikely to break ever.
Do a search for 14 AWG Soft High Strand Flexible Silicone Wire. You can get 20 feet for about $8. It is things like this that make this printer better
than the more expensive ones over time.
The Chain Links
This was not worth my time making in Fusion 360 when Thingiverse has decent ones already. Go here and download the files. Print them at 100% Infill. There
are certain things we do not cheap out on by making them less solid. You need 16 Chain Links. Print the Heatbed and Frame ends and everything nicely snaps
together.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2366234
With Support turned on, print the frame mount upright like in the 2nd top left photo at that Thingiverse link. The Heatbed end just goes as flat as
possible and the links as well.
Cura Profile Settings
As I said earlier I use the latest Cura because it's free and it has everything I could ever ask for. Here is the ANET A8 configuration that works best
for me. If you have suggestions on how it could be better, please email me and let me know! The first Screen Shot is the Machine Settings for the A8.
The next 4 Screen Shots are the exact settings on the right side of the screen used to tweak all of Cura's print settings. Click on the small version to
bring up the readable version!
Cura Page One
Cura Page Two
Cura Page Three
Cura Page Four
Just so you know, I do not believe in "Low Poly" which is another word for Poor Quality and everything I do is the finest settings for the very best
high quality prints. I do not care how long it takes or how much filament is used. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
The Heat Bed
The Heat Bed that comes with the A8 will do nicely, but when it comes to replacing it, there is a slightly better alternative. I find it works well and spreads the heat
out well. The problem is there is a lot of soldering to do since none of the LEDs, Resistors or wires are connected. In fact, it doesn't even come with those parts! When I
complained about this, the company sent me the VERY VERY TINY (did I mention small?) resistors and LEDs that I can barely see, let alone solder! Here was my workaround:
One of the problems with the stock A8 is its heat bed connector. It will not take long for it to die on you. Usually it's a burned ground connection.
They did not use beefy enough connectors. This is a good opportunity to change that. Do not be afraid of soldering! Just watch a few tutorials on the
internet and off you go!
The Heat Bed Replacement in question is the MKS MK3-220. You will need the appropriate Thermistor NTC 3950 (100K), a 220 Ohm 1/8 watt Resistor,
a 3mm or 5mm LED (5v), 14 gauge Silicon Wire and about 6 feet of 24 gauge wire for the Thermistor connection to the Motherboard (2 wires 3 feet long).
Use the LED color of your choice. All it is for is to give you an indication the Heater is heating. It is hard to see since its under the bed, but
that is how this system originally worked. If you want a nice heater ON indication, extend those wires and place the LED somewhere else if you wish.
The 220 ohm resistor and LED are attached on the left side as shown. The resistor value is not critical and you can use all the way up to a 1K. It is
there as a current limiter for the LED. The Red Hot wire and the Black Ground wire go in position 1 and 2 respectively. What is harder to see is the
Thermistor wires. They are just behind the black wire and go side by side in that position. Orientation doesn't matter. I took two shots just to make
sure. Be sure to use heat shrink tubing to protect the leads from crossing each other.
The NTC 3950 Thermistor goes in the center of the bed as shown. This is what senses the heat level and transmits that information to the motherboard.
With all of the connections made, you can now thread the wires through your new chain and connect to the motherboards connections. Be sure to observe
proper electrical connections and use tie wraps or something to organize the wires appropriately.
Bed Leveling Sensors, the Real Story!
Next we will discuss Bed Leveling Sensors and exactly how to connect them. First off, I will assume you followed my advice and have a 3mm glass with
.8mm PEI sheet on top. This fact alone eliminates a great deal of the conversation. The sensor that works best for that combination hands down is
the Capacitive Sensor. Capacitive Sensors can see through PEI and Glass and reflect off of the Aluminum substrate. This is the most accurate sensor
available for glass/PEI. I have never tested just how accurate because it gets the bed into perfect position about 97% of the time. Hard to improve on
that. The other 3% is very likely anomalies in motherboard sensing capability. I never start a print without watching the start of it and I have been
very pleased with the LJC18A3-B-Z/BX NPN Capacitive Proximity Switch. I use it on all of my A8's. Remember, the Inductive sensors do not see through glass
and are wonky on PEI and sensors that actually touch the bed are a bad idea since they are mechanical and can wear out quickly. I am very grateful for
how well these work.
First off, this is not a matter of Plug and Play. We have some work to do to properly install this sensor. The sensor uses anywhere from 6 volts to
36 volts for its power source and your A8 uses a 5 volt motherboard (in the area of it we are concerned with). 5 volts isn't enough. Fortunately for us,
the A8 uses a 12 volt power supply so we have what we need, almost. We can't just apply the full 12 volts to the motherboards pin for sensing the Z
axis. That is too much and we will burn it out. We need to be careful and choose just the right compromise. 6 volts is on the low end, so let's not
use that. Any more than 8 volts could toast the motherboard, so let's go with 7 volts. The question is how do we get 7 volts only out of a 12 volt
power supply? Enter the Buck Converter! For a grand total of about $5 we can convert 12 volts to 7 volts very precisely and just for our Capacitive
Sensor. Pretty cool eh?
We COULD go with a "easier" alternative like a voltage reduction diode or transistor, but this solution is far better in that you will get cleaner,
more precise voltage with the benefit of being able to check the output of your 12v power supply. This is the best solution. Once you adjust the stepdown
voltage, you will never have to change it.
The Buck Converter I chose has a nice LCD display on it so we can monitor its output (or its input if you wish). I rarely even look at it anymore
since they have been working so reliably for a few years of operation. But press the button on the converter and you can see the Input which is nice
to monitor to make sure your 12v power supply is doing its thing. Do an Ebay search for Buck Step-down LM2596 Power Converter Module DC 4.0~40
to 1.3-37V LED Voltmeter. Now we will go into how to hook this all up!
The Capacitive Sensor has three wires. They are colored Brown, Black and Blue. Brown is POSITIVE Voltage (7v), Blue is GROUND and Black is the Sense wire.
Do not assume Black is ground, it isn't. Read the side of the sensor for clarity. We will connect the Black wire directly to the Z Axis End Stop Switch
connection on the motherboard. You can remove the Z End Stop Switch and put it away for an extra. I want to be extra clear about how to hook this up,
so forgive me for going into such detail. Take a look at the Z end stop connector on the original A8 motherboard. The TWO-WIRE connector has Ground on the
right and Sense on the left. We will use the Ground to ensure that our buck converter is grounded at the same potential as the Sensor and Mobo, and we
will connect the Sense wire directly to the Black wire from the Sensor. The power to power the Sensor will come from the Brown (+) Buck Converter Output.
The sensor has a diameter of 18mm so we need to mount this to the Extruder Assembly so it can do its thing. This was also something that I didn't see
a need to re-create because Thingiverse has it covered. I decided I agree with the place to mount it. And it IS plenty handy located there. Someday I will
solve the problem of what a pain it is to change filament that will probably effect this mount, but meanwhile, this is as good as it gets.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2345674
Marlin for 3D Printing
The reason I am putting this here as well as in other places on the website is because the software you use will effect your bed leveling capability. The
only real choice for making this Printer do amazing things without a lot of fiddling around is Marlin. It looks daunting when you start off, so
here are a couple of tips to help you keep things in order. Marlin is free and we are so appreciative of the Marlin Team. There are several methods of
bed leveling that are available with Marlin, but the one that I use is Auto Bed Leveling Linear. I am not an expert at this, but I know it works. I
encourage anyone who understands this clearly to contact me so I can write about this better. So be forewarned, this works perfectly for me, so I feel
okay with sharing.
I will not go into tremendous detail on how to set this up because there are more expert people out there you can listen to, however here is my
configuration.h file for Marlin 1.8.3. If you have a Ramps 1.4 or other than the A8 Stock board, change accordingly. Be sure you save your current
configuration.h file before you do this under another filename so if you have adverse problems, you can go back and start over.
/**
* Marlin 3D Printer Firmware
* Copyright (C) 2016 MarlinFirmware [https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin]
*
* Based on Sprinter and grbl.
* Copyright (C) 2011 Camiel Gubbels / Erik van der Zalm
*
* This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
* it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
* the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or
* (at your option) any later version.
*
* This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
* but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
* MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
* GNU General Public License for more details.
*
* You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
* along with this program. If not, see .
*
*/
/**
* Configuration.h
*
* Basic settings such as:
*
* - Type of electronics
* - Type of temperature sensor
* - Printer geometry
* - Endstop configuration
* - LCD controller
* - Extra features
*
* Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
*
*/
#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 010107
//===========================================================================
//============================= Getting Started =============================
//===========================================================================
/**
* Here are some standard links for getting your machine calibrated:
*
* http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration
* http://youtu.be/wAL9d7FgInk
* http://calculator.josefprusa.cz
* http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide
* http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573
* https://sites.google.com/site/repraplogphase/calibration-of-your-reprap
* http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298812
*/
//===========================================================================
//============================= DELTA Printer ===============================
//===========================================================================
// For a Delta printer start with one of the configuration files in the
// example_configurations/delta directory and customize for your machine.
//
//===========================================================================
//============================= SCARA Printer ===============================
//===========================================================================
// For a SCARA printer start with the configuration files in
// example_configurations/SCARA and customize for your machine.
//
// section info
// User-specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during
// startup. Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made to this
// build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(none, default config)" // Who made the changes.
#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN
#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE1 SHORT_BUILD_VERSION // will be shown during bootup in line 1
#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 WEBSITE_URL // will be shown during bootup in line 2
//
// *** VENDORS PLEASE READ *****************************************************
//
// Marlin now allow you to have a vendor boot image to be displayed on machine
// start. When SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN is defined Marlin will first show your
// custom boot image and then the default Marlin boot image is shown.
//
// We suggest for you to take advantage of this new feature and keep the Marlin
// boot image unmodified. For an example have a look at the bq Hephestos 2
// example configuration folder.
//
//#define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN
// section machine
/**
* Select which serial port on the board will be used for communication with the host.
* This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
* Serial port 0 is always used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
*
* :[0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]
*/
#define SERIAL_PORT 0
/**
* This setting determines the communication speed of the printer.
*
* 250000 works in most cases, but you might try a lower speed if
* you commonly experience drop-outs during host printing.
* You may try up to 1000000 to speed up SD file transfer.
*
* :[2400, 9600, 19200, 38400, 57600, 115200, 250000, 500000, 1000000]
*/
#define BAUDRATE 115200
// Enable the Bluetooth serial interface on AT90USB devices
//#define BLUETOOTH
// The following define selects which electronics board you have.
// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ANET_10
#endif
// Optional custom name for your RepStrap or other custom machine
// Displayed in the LCD "Ready" message
#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "devestechnet.com/NewTech/"
// Define this to set a unique identifier for this printer, (Used by some programs to differentiate between machines)
// You can use an online service to generate a random UUID. (eg http://www.uuidgenerator.net/version4)
//#define MACHINE_UUID "00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000"
// section extruder
// This defines the number of extruders
// :[1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
#define EXTRUDERS 1
// Generally expected filament diameter (1.75, 2.85, 3.0, ...). Used for Volumetric, Filament Width Sensor, etc.
#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 1.75
// For Cyclops or any "multi-extruder" that shares a single nozzle.
//#define SINGLENOZZLE
/**
* Průša MK2 Single Nozzle Multi-Material Multiplexer, and variants.
*
* This device allows one stepper driver on a control board to drive
* two to eight stepper motors, one at a time, in a manner suitable
* for extruders.
*
* This option only allows the multiplexer to switch on tool-change.
* Additional options to configure custom E moves are pending.
*/
//#define MK2_MULTIPLEXER
#if ENABLED(MK2_MULTIPLEXER)
// Override the default DIO selector pins here, if needed.
// Some pins files may provide defaults for these pins.
//#define E_MUX0_PIN 40 // Always Required
//#define E_MUX1_PIN 42 // Needed for 3 to 8 steppers
//#define E_MUX2_PIN 44 // Needed for 5 to 8 steppers
#endif
// A dual extruder that uses a single stepper motor
//#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER
#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_EXTRUDER)
#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_NR 0
#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1[, E2, E3]
#if EXTRUDERS > 3
#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_E23_SERVO_NR 1
#endif
#endif
// A dual-nozzle that uses a servomotor to raise/lower one of the nozzles
//#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE
#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_NOZZLE)
#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR 0
#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1
//#define HOTEND_OFFSET_Z { 0.0, 0.0 }
#endif
/**
* Two separate X-carriages with extruders that connect to a moving part
* via a magnetic docking mechanism. Requires SOL1_PIN and SOL2_PIN.
*/
//#define PARKING_EXTRUDER
#if ENABLED(PARKING_EXTRUDER)
#define PARKING_EXTRUDER_SOLENOIDS_INVERT // If enabled, the solenoid is NOT magnetized with applied voltage
#define PARKING_EXTRUDER_SOLENOIDS_PINS_ACTIVE LOW // LOW or HIGH pin signal energizes the coil
#define PARKING_EXTRUDER_SOLENOIDS_DELAY 250 // Delay (ms) for magnetic field. No delay if 0 or not defined.
#define PARKING_EXTRUDER_PARKING_X { -78, 184 } // X positions for parking the extruders
#define PARKING_EXTRUDER_GRAB_DISTANCE 1 // mm to move beyond the parking point to grab the extruder
#define PARKING_EXTRUDER_SECURITY_RAISE 5 // Z-raise before parking
#define HOTEND_OFFSET_Z { 0.0, 1.3 } // Z-offsets of the two hotends. The first must be 0.
#endif
/**
* "Mixing Extruder"
* - Adds a new code, M165, to set the current mix factors.
* - Extends the stepping routines to move multiple steppers in proportion to the mix.
* - Optional support for Repetier Firmware M163, M164, and virtual extruder.
* - This implementation supports only a single extruder.
* - Enable DIRECT_MIXING_IN_G1 for Pia Taubert's reference implementation
*/
//#define MIXING_EXTRUDER
#if ENABLED(MIXING_EXTRUDER)
#define MIXING_STEPPERS 2 // Number of steppers in your mixing extruder
#define MIXING_VIRTUAL_TOOLS 16 // Use the Virtual Tool method with M163 and M164
//#define DIRECT_MIXING_IN_G1 // Allow ABCDHI mix factors in G1 movement commands
#endif
// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
//#define HOTEND_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
//#define HOTEND_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis
// section machine
/**
* Select your power supply here. Use 0 if you haven't connected the PS_ON_PIN
*
* 0 = No Power Switch
* 1 = ATX
* 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)
*
* :{ 0:'No power switch', 1:'ATX', 2:'X-Box 360' }
*/
#define POWER_SUPPLY 0
#if POWER_SUPPLY > 0
// Enable this option to leave the PSU off at startup.
// Power to steppers and heaters will need to be turned on with M80.
//#define PS_DEFAULT_OFF
#endif
// section temperature
//===========================================================================
//============================= Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
/**
* --NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
*
* Temperature sensors available:
*
* -3 : thermocouple with MAX31855 (only for sensor 0)
* -2 : thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
* -1 : thermocouple with AD595
* 0 : not used
* 1 : 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
* 2 : 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
* 3 : Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
* 4 : 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
* 5 : 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
* 6 : 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
* 7 : 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
* 71 : 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
* 8 : 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
* 9 : 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
* 10 : 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
* 11 : 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
* 12 : 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)
* 13 : 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE"
* 20 : the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x
* 60 : 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950
* 66 : 4.7M High Temperature thermistor from Dyze Design
* 70 : the 100K thermistor found in the bq Hephestos 2
* 75 : 100k Generic Silicon Heat Pad with NTC 100K MGB18-104F39050L32 thermistor
*
* 1k ohm pullup tables - This is atypical, and requires changing out the 4.7k pullup for 1k.
* (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
* 51 : 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
* 52 : 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
* 55 : 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
*
* 1047 : Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup
* 1010 : Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)
* 147 : Pt100 with 4k7 pullup
* 110 : Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)
*
* Use these for Testing or Development purposes. NEVER for production machine.
* 998 : Dummy Table that ALWAYS reads 25°C or the temperature defined below.
* 999 : Dummy Table that ALWAYS reads 100°C or the temperature defined below.
*
* :{ '0': "Not used", '1':"100k / 4.7k - EPCOS", '2':"200k / 4.7k - ATC Semitec 204GT-2", '3':"Mendel-parts / 4.7k", '4':"10k !! do not use for a hotend. Bad resolution at high temp. !!", '5':"100K / 4.7k - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head)", '6':"100k / 4.7k EPCOS - Not as accurate as Table 1", '7':"100k / 4.7k Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01", '8':"100k / 4.7k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT", '9':"100k / 4.7k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1", '10':"100k / 4.7k RS 198-961", '11':"100k / 4.7k beta 3950 1%", '12':"100k / 4.7k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)", '13':"100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend 'Simple ONE ' & hotend 'All In ONE'", '20':"PT100 (Ultimainboard V2.x)", '51':"100k / 1k - EPCOS", '52':"200k / 1k - ATC Semitec 204GT-2", '55':"100k / 1k - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head)", '60':"100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950", '66':"Dyze Design 4.7M High Temperature thermistor", '70':"the 100K thermistor found in the bq Hephestos 2", '71':"100k / 4.7k Honeywell 135-104LAF-J01", '147':"Pt100 / 4.7k", '1047':"Pt1000 / 4.7k", '110':"Pt100 / 1k (non-standard)", '1010':"Pt1000 / 1k (non standard)", '-3':"Thermocouple + MAX31855 (only for sensor 0)", '-2':"Thermocouple + MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)", '-1':"Thermocouple + AD595",'998':"Dummy 1", '999':"Dummy 2" }
*/
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_4 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 5
// Dummy thermistor constant temperature readings, for use with 998 and 999
#define DUMMY_THERMISTOR_998_VALUE 25
#define DUMMY_THERMISTOR_999_VALUE 100
// Use temp sensor 1 as a redundant sensor with sensor 0. If the readings
// from the two sensors differ too much the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 40
// Extruder temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 20 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 20 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.
// Bed temperature must be close to target for this long before M190 returns success
#define TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME 6 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_BED_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.
// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_3_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_4_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5
// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_3_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_4_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 130
//===========================================================================
//============================= PID Settings ================================
//===========================================================================
// PID Tuning Guide here: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // Limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define PID_MAX BANG_MAX // Limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current
#define PID_K1 0.95 // Smoothing factor within the PID
#if ENABLED(PIDTEMP)
//#define PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU // Add PID Autotune to the LCD "Temperature" menu to run M303 and apply the result.
//#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
//#define SLOW_PWM_HEATERS // PWM with very low frequency (roughly 0.125Hz=8s) and minimum state time of approximately 1s useful for heaters driven by a relay
//#define PID_PARAMS_PER_HOTEND // Uses separate PID parameters for each extruder (useful for mismatched extruders)
// Set/get with gcode: M301 E[extruder number, 0-2]
#define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
// is more than PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
// If you are using a pre-configured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_Kp 21.0
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.25
#define DEFAULT_Kd 86.0
// MakerGear
//#define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
//#define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
//#define DEFAULT_Kd 12
// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
//#define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
//#define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
//#define DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP
//===========================================================================
//============================= PID > Bed Temperature Control ===============
//===========================================================================
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you probably
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING
// This sets the max power delivered to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 255 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 255 // limits duty cycle to bed; 255=full current
#if ENABLED(PIDTEMPBED)
//#define PID_BED_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//120V 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4
//120V 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
//#define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
//#define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
//#define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16
// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED
// section extruder
// This option prevents extrusion if the temperature is below EXTRUDE_MINTEMP.
// It also enables the M302 command to set the minimum extrusion temperature
// or to allow moving the extruder regardless of the hotend temperature.
// *** IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO LEAVE THIS OPTION ENABLED! ***
#define PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION
#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
// This option prevents a single extrusion longer than EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH.
// Note that for Bowden Extruders a too-small value here may prevent loading.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH 200
//===========================================================================
//======================== Thermal Runaway Protection =======================
//===========================================================================
/**
* Thermal Protection provides additional protection to your printer from damage
* and fire. Marlin always includes safe min and max temperature ranges which
* protect against a broken or disconnected thermistor wire.
*
* The issue: If a thermistor falls out, it will report the much lower
* temperature of the air in the room, and the the firmware will keep
* the heater on.
*
* If you get "Thermal Runaway" or "Heating failed" errors the
* details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h
*/
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed
//===========================================================================
//============================= Mechanical Settings =========================
//===========================================================================
// section machine
// Uncomment one of these options to enable CoreXY, CoreXZ, or CoreYZ kinematics
// either in the usual order or reversed
//#define COREXY
//#define COREXZ
//#define COREYZ
//#define COREYX
//#define COREZX
//#define COREZY
//===========================================================================
//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================
//===========================================================================
// section homing
// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
// coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE
//=============================================================================
//============================== Movement Settings ============================
//=============================================================================
// section motion
/**
* Default Settings
*
* These settings can be reset by M502
*
* Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.
*/
/**
* With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the
* following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the
* total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.
*/
//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 400, 95 }
/**
* Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)
* Override with M203
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 400, 400, 8, 50 }
/**
* Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)
* Override with M201
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 1000, 1000, 100, 5000 }
/**
* Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* Override with M204
*
* M204 P Acceleration
* M204 R Retract Acceleration
* M204 T Travel Acceleration
*/
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 400 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 // E acceleration for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 400 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves
/**
* Default Jerk (mm/s)
* Override with M205 X Y Z E
*
* "Jerk" specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.
* When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the
* value set here, it may happen instantaneously.
*/
#define DEFAULT_XJERK 20.0
#define DEFAULT_YJERK 20.0
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.3
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0
//===========================================================================
//============================= Z Probe Options =============================
//===========================================================================
// section probes
//
// See http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/probes.html
//
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.
*/
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.
* (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)
* To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.
*
* - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.
* - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.
*
* - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4->D32 pin:
* - For simple switches connect...
* - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.
* - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.
*
* WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially
* disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.
*
*/
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
/**
* Probe Type
*
* Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.
* Activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.
*/
/**
* The "Manual Probe" provides a means to do "Auto" Bed Leveling without a probe.
* Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands
* or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.
*/
//#define PROBE_MANUALLY
/**
* A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.
* (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)
*/
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
/**
* Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.
*/
//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.
//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles
/**
* The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.
*/
//#define BLTOUCH
#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)
//#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
#endif
/**
* Enable one or more of the following if probing seems unreliable.
* Heaters and/or fans can be disabled during probing to minimize electrical
* noise. A delay can also be added to allow noise and vibration to settle.
* These options are most useful for the BLTouch probe, but may also improve
* readings with inductive probes and piezo sensors.
*/
//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing
//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF // Turn fans off when probing
//#define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 200 // (ms) To prevent vibrations from triggering piezo sensors
// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)
//#define SOLENOID_PROBE
// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.
//#define Z_PROBE_SLED
//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.
//
// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.
//
/**
* Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
* X and Y offsets must be integers.
*
* In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
* #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
* #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
*
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
*/
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -23 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -35 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 3 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 10000
// Speed for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z
// Speed for the "accurate" probe of each point
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)
// The number of probes to perform at each point.
// Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.
// Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
/**
* Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between
* probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.
* Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.
* Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.
*
* Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or
* lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)
* probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.
* Only integer values >= 1 are valid here.
*
* Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4 => 9mm from bed to nozzle.
* But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2 => 2mm from bed to nozzle.
*/
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST
// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders
// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.
// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy
//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING
// section extruder
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.
// section machine
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
// Enable this option for Toshiba stepper drivers
//#define CONFIG_STEPPERS_TOSHIBA
// section extruder
// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false
#define INVERT_E4_DIR false
// section homing
//#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING // Inhibit movement until all axes have been homed
//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...
// Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.
// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// :[-1,1]
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
// section machine
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -33
#define Y_MIN_POS -10
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
/**
* Software Endstops
*
* - Prevent moves outside the set machine bounds.
* - Individual axes can be disabled, if desired.
* - X and Y only apply to Cartesian robots.
* - Use 'M211' to set software endstops on/off or report current state
*/
// Min software endstops curtail movement below minimum coordinate bounds
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
// Max software endstops curtail movement above maximum coordinate bounds
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
/**
* Filament Runout Sensor
* A mechanical or opto endstop is used to check for the presence of filament.
*
* RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN.
* For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.
* By default the firmware assumes HIGH = has filament, LOW = ran out
*/
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
#define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"
#endif
//===========================================================================
//=============================== Bed Leveling ==============================
//===========================================================================
// section calibrate
/**
* Choose one of the options below to enable G29 Bed Leveling. The parameters
* and behavior of G29 will change depending on your selection.
*
* If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
* Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)
* You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.
* The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
* Probe several points in a grid.
* You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
* The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
* Probe several points in a grid.
* You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
* The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL (Unified Bed Leveling)
* A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits
* of other systems. UBL also includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh
* Validation and Mesh Editing systems.
*
* - MESH_BED_LEVELING
* Probe a grid manually
* The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.)
* For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform
* leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point.
* With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step.
*/
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING
/**
* Enable detailed logging of G28, G29, M48, etc.
* Turn on with the command 'M111 S32'.
* NOTE: Requires a lot of PROGMEM!
*/
//#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE
#if ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
// Gradually reduce leveling correction until a set height is reached,
// at which point movement will be level to the machine's XY plane.
// The height can be set with M420 Z
#define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT
// For Cartesian machines, instead of dividing moves on mesh boundaries,
// split up moves into short segments like a Delta. This follows the
// contours of the bed more closely than edge-to-edge straight moves.
#define SEGMENT_LEVELED_MOVES
#define LEVELED_SEGMENT_LENGTH 5.0 // (mm) Length of all segments (except the last one)
/**
* Enable the G26 Mesh Validation Pattern tool.
*/
#define G26_MESH_VALIDATION // Enable G26 mesh validation
#if ENABLED(G26_MESH_VALIDATION)
#define MESH_TEST_NOZZLE_SIZE 0.4 // (mm) Diameter of primary nozzle.
#define MESH_TEST_LAYER_HEIGHT 0.2 // (mm) Default layer height for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.
#define MESH_TEST_HOTEND_TEMP 205.0 // (°C) Default nozzle temperature for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.
#define MESH_TEST_BED_TEMP 60.0 // (°C) Default bed temperature for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.
#endif
#endif
#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)
// Set the number of grid points per dimension.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 160
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 160
// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10
// Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column
//#define PROBE_Y_FIRST
#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)
// Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt?
// Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge.
//#define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID
//
// Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method.
// Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh.
//
//#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION
#if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)
// Number of subdivisions between probe points
#define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3
#endif
#endif
#elif ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT)
// 3 arbitrary points to probe.
// A simple cross-product is used to estimate the plane of the bed.
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 20
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 160
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 20
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 10
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 180
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 10
#elif ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
//===========================================================================
//========================= Unified Bed Leveling ============================
//===========================================================================
//#define MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY // Display a graphics overlay while editing the mesh
#define MESH_INSET 1 // Mesh inset margin on print area
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 10 // Don't use more than 15 points per axis, implementation limited.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_1_X 39 // Probing points for 3-Point leveling of the mesh
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 180
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_2_X 39
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 20
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_3_X 180
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 20
#define UBL_MESH_EDIT_MOVES_Z // Sophisticated users prefer no movement of nozzle
#define UBL_SAVE_ACTIVE_ON_M500 // Save the currently active mesh in the current slot on M500
#elif ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING)
//===========================================================================
//=================================== Mesh ==================================
//===========================================================================
#define MESH_INSET 10 // Mesh inset margin on print area
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
//#define MESH_G28_REST_ORIGIN // After homing all axes ('G28' or 'G28 XYZ') rest Z at Z_MIN_POS
#endif // BED_LEVELING
/**
* Use the LCD controller for bed leveling
* Requires MESH_BED_LEVELING or PROBE_MANUALLY
*/
//#define LCD_BED_LEVELING
#if ENABLED(LCD_BED_LEVELING)
#define MBL_Z_STEP 0.025 // Step size while manually probing Z axis.
#define LCD_PROBE_Z_RANGE 4 // Z Range centered on Z_MIN_POS for LCD Z adjustment
#endif
// Add a menu item to move between bed corners for manual bed adjustment
//#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS
/**
* Commands to execute at the end of G29 probing.
* Useful to retract or move the Z probe out of the way.
*/
//#define Z_PROBE_END_SCRIPT "G1 Z10 F12000\nG1 X15 Y330\nG1 Z0.5\nG1 Z10"
// section homing
// The center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0
// Manually set the home position. Leave these undefined for automatic settings.
// For DELTA this is the top-center of the Cartesian print volume.
//#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
// Use "Z Safe Homing" to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area.
//
// With this feature enabled:
//
// - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled.
// - If stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.
// - Move the Z probe (or nozzle) to a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).
// - Prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside bed area.
//
//#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#endif
// Homing speeds (mm/m)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (4*60)
// section calibrate
/**
* Bed Skew Compensation
*
* This feature corrects for misalignment in the XYZ axes.
*
* Take the following steps to get the bed skew in the XY plane:
* 1. Print a test square (e.g., https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185)
* 2. For XY_DIAG_AC measure the diagonal A to C
* 3. For XY_DIAG_BD measure the diagonal B to D
* 4. For XY_SIDE_AD measure the edge A to D
*
* Marlin automatically computes skew factors from these measurements.
* Skew factors may also be computed and set manually:
*
* - Compute AB : SQRT(2*AC*AC+2*BD*BD-4*AD*AD)/2
* - XY_SKEW_FACTOR : TAN(PI/2-ACOS((AC*AC-AB*AB-AD*AD)/(2*AB*AD)))
*
* If desired, follow the same procedure for XZ and YZ.
* Use these diagrams for reference:
*
* Y Z Z
* ^ B-------C ^ B-------C ^ B-------C
* | / / | / / | / /
* | / / | / / | / /
* | A-------D | A-------D | A-------D
* +-------------->X +-------------->X +-------------->Y
* XY_SKEW_FACTOR XZ_SKEW_FACTOR YZ_SKEW_FACTOR
*/
//#define SKEW_CORRECTION
#if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION)
// Input all length measurements here:
#define XY_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746
#define XY_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746
#define XY_SIDE_AD 200
// Or, set the default skew factors directly here
// to override the above measurements:
#define XY_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0
//#define SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z
#if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z)
#define XZ_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746
#define XZ_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746
#define YZ_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746
#define YZ_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746
#define YZ_SIDE_AD 200
#define XZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0
#define YZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0
#endif
// Enable this option for M852 to set skew at runtime
//#define SKEW_CORRECTION_GCODE
#endif
//=============================================================================
//============================= Additional Features ===========================
//=============================================================================
// section extras
//
// EEPROM
//
// The microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores parameters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands
//#define DISABLE_M503 // Saves ~2700 bytes of PROGMEM. Disable for release!
#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT // Give feedback on EEPROM commands. Disable to save PROGMEM.
//
// Host Keepalive
//
// When enabled Marlin will send a busy status message to the host
// every couple of seconds when it can't accept commands.
//
#define HOST_KEEPALIVE_FEATURE // Disable this if your host doesn't like keepalive messages
#define DEFAULT_KEEPALIVE_INTERVAL 2 // Number of seconds between "busy" messages. Set with M113.
#define BUSY_WHILE_HEATING // Some hosts require "busy" messages even during heating
//
// M100 Free Memory Watcher
//
//#define M100_FREE_MEMORY_WATCHER // Add M100 (Free Memory Watcher) to debug memory usage
//
// G20/G21 Inch mode support
//
//#define INCH_MODE_SUPPORT
//
// M149 Set temperature units support
//
//#define TEMPERATURE_UNITS_SUPPORT
// section temperature
// Preheat Constants
#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 190
#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED 60
#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND 240
#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED 110
#define PREHEAT_2_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
/**
* Nozzle Park
*
* Park the nozzle at the given XYZ position on idle or G27.
*
* The "P" parameter controls the action applied to the Z axis:
*
* P0 (Default) If Z is below park Z raise the nozzle.
* P1 Raise the nozzle always to Z-park height.
* P2 Raise the nozzle by Z-park amount, limited to Z_MAX_POS.
*/
//#define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE
#if ENABLED(NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE)
// Specify a park position as { X, Y, Z }
#define NOZZLE_PARK_POINT { (X_MIN_POS + 10), (Y_MAX_POS - 10), 20 }
#define NOZZLE_PARK_XY_FEEDRATE 100 // X and Y axes feedrate in mm/s (also used for delta printers Z axis)
#define NOZZLE_PARK_Z_FEEDRATE 5 // Z axis feedrate in mm/s (not used for delta printers)
#endif
/**
* Clean Nozzle Feature -- EXPERIMENTAL
*
* Adds the G12 command to perform a nozzle cleaning process.
*
* Parameters:
* P Pattern
* S Strokes / Repetitions
* T Triangles (P1 only)
*
* Patterns:
* P0 Straight line (default). This process requires a sponge type material
* at a fixed bed location. "S" specifies strokes (i.e. back-forth motions)
* between the start / end points.
*
* P1 Zig-zag pattern between (X0, Y0) and (X1, Y1), "T" specifies the
* number of zig-zag triangles to do. "S" defines the number of strokes.
* Zig-zags are done in whichever is the narrower dimension.
* For example, "G12 P1 S1 T3" will execute:
*
* --
* | (X0, Y1) | /\ /\ /\ | (X1, Y1)
* | | / \ / \ / \ |
* A | | / \ / \ / \ |
* | | / \ / \ / \ |
* | (X0, Y0) | / \/ \/ \ | (X1, Y0)
* -- +--------------------------------+
* |________|_________|_________|
* T1 T2 T3
*
* P2 Circular pattern with middle at NOZZLE_CLEAN_CIRCLE_MIDDLE.
* "R" specifies the radius. "S" specifies the stroke count.
* Before starting, the nozzle moves to NOZZLE_CLEAN_START_POINT.
*
* Caveats: The ending Z should be the same as starting Z.
* Attention: EXPERIMENTAL. G-code arguments may change.
*
*/
//#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_FEATURE
#if ENABLED(NOZZLE_CLEAN_FEATURE)
// Default number of pattern repetitions
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_STROKES 12
// Default number of triangles
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_TRIANGLES 3
// Specify positions as { X, Y, Z }
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_START_POINT { 30, 30, (Z_MIN_POS + 1)}
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_END_POINT {100, 60, (Z_MIN_POS + 1)}
// Circular pattern radius
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_CIRCLE_RADIUS 6.5
// Circular pattern circle fragments number
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_CIRCLE_FN 10
// Middle point of circle
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_CIRCLE_MIDDLE NOZZLE_CLEAN_START_POINT
// Moves the nozzle to the initial position
#define NOZZLE_CLEAN_GOBACK
#endif
/**
* Print Job Timer
*
* Automatically start and stop the print job timer on M104/M109/M190.
*
* M104 (hotend, no wait) - high temp = none, low temp = stop timer
* M109 (hotend, wait) - high temp = start timer, low temp = stop timer
* M190 (bed, wait) - high temp = start timer, low temp = none
*
* The timer can also be controlled with the following commands:
*
* M75 - Start the print job timer
* M76 - Pause the print job timer
* M77 - Stop the print job timer
*/
#define PRINTJOB_TIMER_AUTOSTART
/**
* Print Counter
*
* Track statistical data such as:
*
* - Total print jobs
* - Total successful print jobs
* - Total failed print jobs
* - Total time printing
*
* View the current statistics with M78.
*/
//#define PRINTCOUNTER
//=============================================================================
//============================= LCD and SD support ============================
//=============================================================================
// section lcd
/**
* LCD LANGUAGE
*
* Select the language to display on the LCD. These languages are available:
*
* en, an, bg, ca, cn, cz, cz_utf8, de, el, el-gr, es, eu, fi, fr, fr_utf8, gl,
* hr, it, kana, kana_utf8, nl, pl, pt, pt_utf8, pt-br, pt-br_utf8, ru, sk_utf8,
* tr, uk, zh_CN, zh_TW, test
*
* :{ 'en':'English', 'an':'Aragonese', 'bg':'Bulgarian', 'ca':'Catalan', 'cn':'Chinese', 'cz':'Czech', 'cz_utf8':'Czech (UTF8)', 'de':'German', 'el':'Greek', 'el-gr':'Greek (Greece)', 'es':'Spanish', 'eu':'Basque-Euskera', 'fi':'Finnish', 'fr':'French', 'fr_utf8':'French (UTF8)', 'gl':'Galician', 'hr':'Croatian', 'it':'Italian', 'kana':'Japanese', 'kana_utf8':'Japanese (UTF8)', 'nl':'Dutch', 'pl':'Polish', 'pt':'Portuguese', 'pt-br':'Portuguese (Brazilian)', 'pt-br_utf8':'Portuguese (Brazilian UTF8)', 'pt_utf8':'Portuguese (UTF8)', 'ru':'Russian', 'sk_utf8':'Slovak (UTF8)', 'tr':'Turkish', 'uk':'Ukrainian', 'zh_CN':'Chinese (Simplified)', 'zh_TW':'Chinese (Taiwan)', test':'TEST' }
*/
#define LCD_LANGUAGE en
/**
* LCD Character Set
*
* Note: This option is NOT applicable to Graphical Displays.
*
* All character-based LCDs provide ASCII plus one of these
* language extensions:
*
* - JAPANESE ... the most common
* - WESTERN ... with more accented characters
* - CYRILLIC ... for the Russian language
*
* To determine the language extension installed on your controller:
*
* - Compile and upload with LCD_LANGUAGE set to 'test'
* - Click the controller to view the LCD menu
* - The LCD will display Japanese, Western, or Cyrillic text
*
* See http://marlinfw.org/docs/development/lcd_language.html
*
* :['JAPANESE', 'WESTERN', 'CYRILLIC']
*/
#define DISPLAY_CHARSET_HD44780 JAPANESE
/**
* LCD TYPE
*
* Enable ULTRA_LCD for a 16x2, 16x4, 20x2, or 20x4 character-based LCD.
* Enable DOGLCD for a 128x64 (ST7565R) Full Graphical Display.
* (These options will be enabled automatically for most displays.)
*
* IMPORTANT: The U8glib library is required for Full Graphic Display!
* https://github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino
*/
//#define ULTRA_LCD // Character based
//#define DOGLCD // Full graphics display
/**
* SD CARD
*
* SD Card support is disabled by default. If your controller has an SD slot,
* you must uncomment the following option or it won't work.
*
*/
//#define SDSUPPORT
/**
* SD CARD: SPI SPEED
*
* Enable one of the following items for a slower SPI transfer speed.
* This may be required to resolve "volume init" errors.
*/
//#define SPI_SPEED SPI_HALF_SPEED
//#define SPI_SPEED SPI_QUARTER_SPEED
//#define SPI_SPEED SPI_EIGHTH_SPEED
/**
* SD CARD: ENABLE CRC
*
* Use CRC checks and retries on the SD communication.
*/
//#define SD_CHECK_AND_RETRY
//
// ENCODER SETTINGS
//
// This option overrides the default number of encoder pulses needed to
// produce one step. Should be increased for high-resolution encoders.
//
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1
//
// Use this option to override the number of step signals required to
// move between next/prev menu items.
//
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5
/**
* Encoder Direction Options
*
* Test your encoder's behavior first with both options disabled.
*
* Reversed Value Edit and Menu Nav? Enable REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION.
* Reversed Menu Navigation only? Enable REVERSE_MENU_DIRECTION.
* Reversed Value Editing only? Enable BOTH options.
*/
//
// This option reverses the encoder direction everywhere.
//
// Set this option if CLOCKWISE causes values to DECREASE
//
//#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION
//
// This option reverses the encoder direction for navigating LCD menus.
//
// If CLOCKWISE normally moves DOWN this makes it go UP.
// If CLOCKWISE normally moves UP this makes it go DOWN.
//
//#define REVERSE_MENU_DIRECTION
//
// Individual Axis Homing
//
// Add individual axis homing items (Home X, Home Y, and Home Z) to the LCD menu.
//
//#define INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU
//
// SPEAKER/BUZZER
//
// If you have a speaker that can produce tones, enable it here.
// By default Marlin assumes you have a buzzer with a fixed frequency.
//
//#define SPEAKER
//
// The duration and frequency for the UI feedback sound.
// Set these to 0 to disable audio feedback in the LCD menus.
//
// Note: Test audio output with the G-Code:
// M300 S P
//
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000
//
// CONTROLLER TYPE: Standard
//
// Marlin supports a wide variety of controllers.
// Enable one of the following options to specify your controller.
//
//
// ULTIMAKER Controller.
//
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER
//
// ULTIPANEL as seen on Thingiverse.
//
//#define ULTIPANEL
//
// PanelOne from T3P3 (via RAMPS 1.4 AUX2/AUX3)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/PanelOne
//
//#define PANEL_ONE
//
// MaKr3d Makr-Panel with graphic controller and SD support.
// http://reprap.org/wiki/MaKr3d_MaKrPanel
//
//#define MAKRPANEL
//
// ReprapWorld Graphical LCD
// https://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id/1218
//
//#define REPRAPWORLD_GRAPHICAL_LCD
//
// Activate one of these if you have a Panucatt Devices
// Viki 2.0 or mini Viki with Graphic LCD
// http://panucatt.com
//
//#define VIKI2
//#define miniVIKI
//
// Adafruit ST7565 Full Graphic Controller.
// https://github.com/eboston/Adafruit-ST7565-Full-Graphic-Controller/
//
//#define ELB_FULL_GRAPHIC_CONTROLLER
//
// RepRapDiscount Smart Controller.
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
//
// Note: Usually sold with a white PCB.
//
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
//
// GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel
//
// Note: Usually sold with a blue PCB.
//
//#define G3D_PANEL
//
// RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller
//
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
//
// MakerLab Mini Panel with graphic
// controller and SD support - http://reprap.org/wiki/Mini_panel
//
//#define MINIPANEL
//
// RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=202&cPath=1591_1626
//
// REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP sets how much should the robot move when a key
// is pressed, a value of 10.0 means 10mm per click.
//
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 1.0
//
// RigidBot Panel V1.0
// http://www.inventapart.com/
//
//#define RIGIDBOT_PANEL
//
// BQ LCD Smart Controller shipped by
// default with the BQ Hephestos 2 and Witbox 2.
//
//#define BQ_LCD_SMART_CONTROLLER
//
// Cartesio UI
// http://mauk.cc/webshop/cartesio-shop/electronics/user-interface
//
//#define CARTESIO_UI
//
// ANET and Tronxy Controller supported displays.
#define ANET_KEYPAD_LCD
//
//#define ZONESTAR_LCD // Requires ADC_KEYPAD_PIN to be assigned to an analog pin.
// This LCD is known to be susceptible to electrical interference
// which scrambles the display. Pressing any button clears it up.
// This is a LCD2004 display with 5 analog buttons.
//#define ANET_FULL_GRAPHICS_LCD // Anet 128x64 full graphics lcd with rotary encoder as used on Anet A6
// A clone of the RepRapDiscount full graphics display but with
// different pins/wiring (see pins_ANET_10.h).
//
// LCD for Melzi Card with Graphical LCD
//
//#define LCD_FOR_MELZI
//
// CONTROLLER TYPE: I2C
//
// Note: These controllers require the installation of Arduino's LiquidCrystal_I2C
// library. For more info: https://github.com/kiyoshigawa/LiquidCrystal_I2C
//
//
// Elefu RA Board Control Panel
// http://www.elefu.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=53
//
//#define RA_CONTROL_PANEL
//
// Sainsmart YW Robot (LCM1602) LCD Display
//
// Note: This controller requires F.Malpartida's LiquidCrystal_I2C library
// https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/wiki/Home
//
//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
//
// Generic LCM1602 LCD adapter
//
//#define LCM1602
//
// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs,
// separate encoder and click inputs.
//
// Note: This controller requires Arduino's LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later.
// For more info: https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2
//
// Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to
// a pin (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1).
//
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
//
// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs,
// integrated click & L/R/U/D buttons, separate encoder inputs.
//
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
//
// SSD1306 OLED full graphics generic display
//
//#define U8GLIB_SSD1306
//
// SAV OLEd LCD module support using either SSD1306 or SH1106 based LCD modules
//
//#define SAV_3DGLCD
#if ENABLED(SAV_3DGLCD)
//#define U8GLIB_SSD1306
#define U8GLIB_SH1106
#endif
//
// CONTROLLER TYPE: Shift register panels
//
// 2 wire Non-latching LCD SR from https://goo.gl/aJJ4sH
// LCD configuration: http://reprap.org/wiki/SAV_3D_LCD
//
//#define SAV_3DLCD
//
// TinyBoy2 128x64 OLED / Encoder Panel
//
//#define OLED_PANEL_TINYBOY2
//
// Makeboard 3D Printer Parts 3D Printer Mini Display 1602 Mini Controller
// https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Micromake-Makeboard-3D-Printer-Parts-3D-Printer-Mini-Display-1602-Mini-Controller-Compatible-with-Ramps-1/32765887917.html
//
//#define MAKEBOARD_MINI_2_LINE_DISPLAY_1602
//
// MKS MINI12864 with graphic controller and SD support
// http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_MINI_12864
//
//#define MKS_MINI_12864
//
// Factory display for Creality CR-10
// https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-LCD-12864-3D-Printer-Display-Screen-With-Encoder-For-CR-10-CR-7-Model/32833148327.html
//
// This is RAMPS-compatible using a single 10-pin connector.
// (For CR-10 owners who want to replace the Melzi Creality board but retain the display)
//
//#define CR10_STOCKDISPLAY
//
// MKS OLED 1.3" 128x64 FULL GRAPHICS CONTROLLER
// http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_12864OLED
//
// Tiny, but very sharp OLED display
// If there is a pixel shift, try the other controller.
//
//#define MKS_12864OLED // Uses the SH1106 controller (default)
//#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306 // Uses the SSD1306 controller
// Silvergate GLCD controller
// http://github.com/android444/Silvergate
//
//#define SILVER_GATE_GLCD_CONTROLLER
//=============================================================================
//=============================== Extra Features ==============================
//=============================================================================
// section extras
// Increase the FAN PWM frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN
// Use software PWM to drive the fan, as for the heaters. This uses a very low frequency
// which is not as annoying as with the hardware PWM. On the other hand, if this frequency
// is too low, you should also increment SOFT_PWM_SCALE.
//#define FAN_SOFT_PWM
// Incrementing this by 1 will double the software PWM frequency,
// affecting heaters, and the fan if FAN_SOFT_PWM is enabled.
// However, control resolution will be halved for each increment;
// at zero value, there are 128 effective control positions.
#define SOFT_PWM_SCALE 0
// If SOFT_PWM_SCALE is set to a value higher than 0, dithering can
// be used to mitigate the associated resolution loss. If enabled,
// some of the PWM cycles are stretched so on average the desired
// duty cycle is attained.
//#define SOFT_PWM_DITHER
// Temperature status LEDs that display the hotend and bed temperature.
// If all hotends, bed temperature, and target temperature are under 54C
// then the BLUE led is on. Otherwise the RED led is on. (1C hysteresis)
//#define TEMP_STAT_LEDS
// M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/rc-1_hacked/
//#define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23
// SkeinForge sends the wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX
// Support for the BariCUDA Paste Extruder
//#define BARICUDA
// Support for BlinkM/CyzRgb
//#define BLINKM
// Support for PCA9632 PWM LED driver
//#define PCA9632
/**
* RGB LED / LED Strip Control
*
* Enable support for an RGB LED connected to 5V digital pins, or
* an RGB Strip connected to MOSFETs controlled by digital pins.
*
* Adds the M150 command to set the LED (or LED strip) color.
* If pins are PWM capable (e.g., 4, 5, 6, 11) then a range of
* luminance values can be set from 0 to 255.
* For Neopixel LED an overall brightness parameter is also available.
*
* *** CAUTION ***
* LED Strips require a MOFSET Chip between PWM lines and LEDs,
* as the Arduino cannot handle the current the LEDs will require.
* Failure to follow this precaution can destroy your Arduino!
* NOTE: A separate 5V power supply is required! The Neopixel LED needs
* more current than the Arduino 5V linear regulator can produce.
* *** CAUTION ***
*
* LED Type. Enable only one of the following two options.
*
*/
//#define RGB_LED
//#define RGBW_LED
#if ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED)
#define RGB_LED_R_PIN 34
#define RGB_LED_G_PIN 43
#define RGB_LED_B_PIN 35
#define RGB_LED_W_PIN -1
#endif
// Support for Adafruit Neopixel LED driver
//#define NEOPIXEL_LED
#if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED)
#define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRBW // NEO_GRBW / NEO_GRB - four/three channel driver type (defined in Adafruit_NeoPixel.h)
#define NEOPIXEL_PIN 4 // LED driving pin on motherboard 4 => D4 (EXP2-5 on Printrboard) / 30 => PC7 (EXP3-13 on Rumba)
#define NEOPIXEL_PIXELS 30 // Number of LEDs in the strip
#define NEOPIXEL_IS_SEQUENTIAL // Sequential display for temperature change - LED by LED. Disable to change all LEDs at once.
#define NEOPIXEL_BRIGHTNESS 127 // Initial brightness (0-255)
//#define NEOPIXEL_STARTUP_TEST // Cycle through colors at startup
#endif
/**
* Printer Event LEDs
*
* During printing, the LEDs will reflect the printer status:
*
* - Gradually change from blue to violet as the heated bed gets to target temp
* - Gradually change from violet to red as the hotend gets to temperature
* - Change to white to illuminate work surface
* - Change to green once print has finished
* - Turn off after the print has finished and the user has pushed a button
*/
#if ENABLED(BLINKM) || ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED) || ENABLED(PCA9632) || ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED)
#define PRINTER_EVENT_LEDS
#endif
/**
* R/C SERVO support
* Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas
*/
/**
* Number of servos
*
* For some servo-related options NUM_SERVOS will be set automatically.
* Set this manually if there are extra servos needing manual control.
* Leave undefined or set to 0 to entirely disable the servo subsystem.
*/
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command
// Delay (in milliseconds) before the next move will start, to give the servo time to reach its target angle.
// 300ms is a good value but you can try less delay.
// If the servo can't reach the requested position, increase it.
#define SERVO_DELAY { 300 }
// Servo deactivation
//
// With this option servos are powered only during movement, then turned off to prevent jitter.
//#define DEACTIVATE_SERVOS_AFTER_MOVE
#endif // CONFIGURATION_H
Conclusions
I write this stuff down for you and me both. I will forget what I did if I do not write it down. Meanwhile, it would be NICE if you were to also share
your setup and let me know how I can improve this document. You can always email me at deve@speedprint.com. I run my printers HARD and rarely stop them.
They run all day and all night so the improvements have to be value added. I hope you agree with what I have done here but your ideas are very welcome!